How to build your first Custom keyboard?

Guide: How to assemble your first custom keyboard

Assembling your own mechanical keyboard is an incredibly satisfying process. Thanks to modern Hot-swap PCBs (which require no soldering), the process is like building with LEGO.

However, the PCB is delicate electronics. To avoid the most common mistakes – such as bent pins or broken Hot-swap sockets – follow this practical step-by-step guide.

What do you need before you start?

  • Barebone Kit (Case + PCB + Plate)

  • Switches (usually between 60 and 100, depending on keyboard size)

  • Keycaps

  • Switch Puller – be sure to have it handy for adjustments!

  • Hard, flat surface (Mousepad or Desk mat works perfectly)

STEP 1: Preparing and checking the switches (The most important part!)

Before you start pressing switches into the keyboard, perform this quick check that will save you hours of headaches:

  1. Check each pin: Look at the bottom of each switch. The two metal pins should be perfectly straight and parallel.

  2. What to do if a pin is bent? Often during transport, a pin gets bent. DO NOT insert it into the keyboard like that! Take tweezers, small nail clippers, or simply straighten it carefully with your finger until it is perfectly straight.

STEP 2: Mounting the switches (Technique without risk to the PCB)

Many beginners break Hot-swap sockets (on the back of the PCB) because they press too hard, without supporting the board or without considering the direction.

⚠️ Golden rule for orientation:

Look at the holes on the PCB. They have a specific arrangement for the two metal pins. Some keyboards are North-facing (pin holes are at the top), while others are South-facing (holes are at the bottom).

  • Make sure the metal pins of the switch align exactly with the metal holes on the PCB before you press.

Correct installation technique:

  1. Start from the four corners of the keyboard. Placing switches in the corners will fix the plate (metal/plastic board) to the PCB and keep it stable.

  2. Hold the switch straight – exactly at 90 degrees to the keyboard. Do not insert it at an angle.

  3. Press smoothly in the center of the switch (on the stem) until you hear a "click." This means the switch is firmly seated in the plate.

  4. If you feel strong resistance, STOP! Do not press with brute force. Remove the switch and see if a pin has bent underneath it.

💡 Pro Tip from TypeHero: If you are assembling the keyboard outside its case (only the PCB and plate), always place your finger behind the PCB, directly under the socket where you are inserting the switch. This way, you counteract the pressure and there is no risk of detaching the Hot-swap switch from the PCB.

STEP 3: Testing the PCB (Before keycaps)

Before you arrange all the keycaps, it's much easier to test if each switch works.

  1. Connect the keyboard to your computer with the cable.

  2. Open a free testing website (e.g., usevia.app or keytest.ru).

  3. Press each key one by one.

    • If a button doesn't light up on the screen: Don't panic. Remove that switch with the Switch Puller. In 99% of cases, you'll see that one of the metal pins bent under the switch during insertion. Straighten it and reinsert it carefully.

STEP 4: Attaching the keycaps

Once you've confirmed that every key works, it's time for the most beautiful part – aesthetics!

  1. Start with the large keys (Spacebar, Shift, Enter, Backspace). They have stabilizers underneath them. Press them gently at the three points (in the middle for the switch and at both ends for the stabilizer) until they fit snugly.

  2. Arrange the remaining keycaps row by row. Pay attention to the keycap profile (if you use Cherry or OEM profile, each row has a different angle!).

Safety Checklist: What NOT to do?

  • ❌ NEVER press the switch with brutal force. If the pin is bent, strong pressure can completely crush it or detach the Hot-swap socket from the PCB itself, which will require soldering repair.

  • ❌ Don't rush with the Spacebar. The stabilizers under the large keys must be properly seated. If your Spacebar "sticks" or is slow, check if the keycap is fully inserted or if the stabilizer has come loose.

  • ❌ Be careful with 3-Pin and 5-Pin compatibility. If your PCB only has 3 holes (3-Pin), but your switches have two additional plastic legs on the sides (5-Pin), they will not fit. You need to trim these two plastic legs beforehand with nail clippers (this does not damage the switch in any way).

Now your custom keyboard is ready! Plug it in, launch your favorite game or start typing, and enjoy the unique sound and feel you created yourself! ⌨️🔥