How to Choose the Right Switch for Your Keyboard?

If you're entering the world of custom mechanical keyboards, you've probably already noticed that choosing switches is the most important step. They determine not only how your keyboard will sound but also how it will feel under your fingers with every press – whether you're programming, typing emails, or playing games.

In this guide, you will learn everything you need to make the perfect choice for your taste and needs.

What exactly is a switch?

In the simplest terms: a switch is the mechanical "heart" under each individual key on your keyboard. When you press the keycap, you activate the switch, which sends a signal to the computer that the button has been pressed.

Unlike mass-produced, cheap membrane keyboards, where you press on a shared rubber sheet, here each key has its own independent spring mechanism. This makes typing more accurate, faster, and extremely satisfying.

Anatomy of a switch: What is it made of?

Each mechanical switch consists of 4 main components that work in perfect synchrony:

  1. Top Housing: The upper "cap" of the switch that keeps everything enclosed. Its material (polycarbonate, nylon, or POM) greatly influences the sound when the button returns upward.

  2. Stem: This is the colored plastic part that moves up and down and onto which the keycap is mounted. The shape of the stem determines whether the switch will be smooth or have a "bump" when pressed.

  3. Spring: Located in the middle, it determines how "heavy" or "light" the press feels. Heavier springs require more finger force and prevent accidental presses.

  4. Bottom Housing & Leaf: The base that mounts to the printed circuit board (PCB). Inside, there are two small metal plates (contacts) – when the stem goes down, it presses them together, closing the circuit, and the computer registers the press.

The three main types of switches: Which one is for you?

All switches on the market are divided into three major categories based on their feel and sound:

1. Linear Switches – Smooth and Fast

  • Feel: Completely smooth movement from top to bottom with no snagging or resistance.

  • Sound: Quiet to medium loud (often described as deep and "creamy" – thocky or clacky).

  • Who they are suitable for: Perfect for gamers (due to quick reaction) and people who prefer smooth and effortless typing.

  • Popular examples: Gateron Milky Yellow Pro, HMX, KTT.

2. Tactile Switches – Feedback and Control

  • Feel: Around the middle of the travel, you'll feel a slight "bump." This physically tells you that the key has been actuated without needing to press it all the way down.

  • Sound: Pleasant, distinct sound without a loud click.

  • Who they are suitable for: A favorite choice for programmers, copywriters, and people who type a lot of text, as they reduce errors and provide great control.

  • Popular examples: Holy Panda, Outemu Pear, Gateron Brown.

3. Clicky Switches – Loud and Sharp

  • Feel: Similar to tactile switches, they have resistance, but upon actuation, they produce a loud, sharp "click" (like an old typewriter).

  • Sound: Very loud and high-pitched.

  • Who they are suitable for: For people who love the sound of typing and work alone in a room. Warning: Your colleagues in the office or people in the room will quickly come to hate you!

  • Popular examples: Kailh Box Navy/Jade, Cherry MX Blue.

What do 3-Pin vs. 5-Pin switches mean?

When browsing switches, you'll notice this designation. It refers to the number of pins at the bottom of the switch:

  • 3-Pin (Plate-mounted): Have two metal contacts and one large plastic pin in the middle. They rely on the keyboard's metal plate for stability.

  • 5-Pin (PCB-mounted): Have two additional plastic pins on the sides. They fit directly into the PCB and make the switch much more stable if your keyboard does not have an additional plate.

💡 Hero's Tip: If your keyboard supports 5-Pin (as most modern hot-swap keyboards do), always choose them. If your PCB only supports 3-Pin, you can easily cut off the two extra plastic pins on a 5-Pin switch with nail clippers!

Technical Details: What do the numbers in the specifications mean?

When you browse the models in TypeHero, you will see a list of technical data under each switch. Here's what they mean in plain language, so you know exactly what you're buying:

1. Actuation Force / Bottom-out Force

Measured in grams (g) or centinewtons (cN), it determines how "heavy" the switch feels.

  • Light switches (35g - 45g): Extremely easy to press. Perfect for fast typing and gaming, but if you have "heavy" fingers, you might make accidental errors.

  • Medium switches (50g - 60g): The sweet spot. Most standard switches fall here – a balanced feel without fatigue.

  • Heavy switches (62g - 70g+): Require a strong press. Loved by people who type aggressively because the spring returns very quickly and sharply.

2. Travel Distance

  • Actuation Point: The distance the stem must travel downwards for the computer to register the press. Standard is around 2.0 mm, but "gamer" or Speed switches actuate earlier (e.g., 1.2 mm), giving you milliseconds of advantage in games.

  • Total Travel: The maximum distance until the switch hits "bottom." The standard is 4.0 mm.

3. The Modern Trend: What is a Long-Pole Stem?

Recently, switches with a so-called Long-pole stem have become increasingly popular.

  • With these, the bottom part of the stem is slightly longer, and it hits the bottom of the housing earlier (total travel is shortened to 3.5 mm - 3.7 mm).

  • The Result: The "bottom-out" sound is much stronger, clearer, and more distinct, and the typing feel itself is sharper and "crispier."

Materials: Why plastic matters for sound?

Not all plastic is created equal. Your keyboard's sound profile largely depends on the materials used for the switch's housings and stem:

  • Nylon: A classic material for housings. Produces a deeper, duller, softer, and low-frequency sound (the classic Thock sound).

  • Polycarbonate / PC: A harder and transparent plastic (often used for RGB switches). Gives a much higher, clearer, cleaner, and "clicky" sound (Clack).

  • POM (Polyoxymethylene): Extremely durable plastic with very low friction. The great thing about POM is that the material is "self-lubricating" – the more you type on such a switch, the smoother it becomes over time. Most high-end stems are made from POM.

  • Blends: Many modern manufacturers (like HMX and KTT) combine different materials (e.g., modified nylon with fiberglass) to achieve a specific and unique sound.

Pre-Lubed Switches

If you want your keyboard to sound deeper and richer, and the movement to be silky smooth, the switches need to be lubricated with a special grease (like Krytox 205g0).

At TypeHero, we offer both fully factory pre-lubed switches, which are ready for direct use with a unique sound, as well as Stock (unlubricated) options if you prefer to enjoy the modification process yourself!

Still Hesitating?

If you're wondering which switch will best suit your style, don't hesitate to message us in the chat or contact us. We are here to help you build the keyboard of your dreams!